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Horniman Museum and Garden, Forest Hill, SE23


This place holds a special place in the heart of Mr Camping Scamping, who used to come here with his grandfather to say hello to the over stuffed walrus and eccentric collection of Fredrick Horniman. That baton has truly been passed onto our scamps who have been visiting this wonderful place since they were born. Whilst the visiting exhibitions come and go, we love the aquarium, music room and the natural history collections. However, when we look through adult lenses, one can't help to think about how and where these exhibits were taken. Keep reading to discover not only the current delights, but also, and perhaps more importantly, the complex colonial legacy of the Horniman Museum and Garden.


Nestled in the heart of South East London, amidst the bustling streets and verdant landscapes, lies a hidden gem that transcends the boundaries of time and space - the Horniman Museum and Gardens. Team Camping Scamping spent an afternoon on a captivating journey through its rich, and sometimes challenging, history, where every artefact, every bloom, whispers tales of antiquity and wonder.



A Visionary's Dream: Frederick Horniman's Legacy

Our story begins over a century ago, in the visionary mind of Frederick Horniman, a passionate collector and philanthropist. Fuelled by an insatiable curiosity for the world and its myriad cultures, Horniman embarked on a quest to gather artefacts that would tell the story of humanity's diverse tapestry. His fervent desire to share his treasures with the world culminated in the establishment of the Horniman Museum in 1901, housed initially in his family home.


As the collection outgrew its modest abode, Horniman's dream took flight with the construction of a purpose-built museum in Forest Hill. Designed by esteemed architect Charles Harrison Townsend, this architectural marvel opened its doors to the public in 1901, becoming an instant beacon of knowledge and enlightenment.


A Cornucopia of Wonders

Step inside, and you're transported into a world of wonders. From Egyptian mummies to mesmerizing musical instruments, the museum's eclectic exhibits span continents and epochs, offering a tantalizing glimpse into the kaleidoscope of human history and creativity.


Cultural Immersion Amidst Natural Splendour

But the marvels of the Horniman Museum extend beyond its walls. Step into the sun-dappled embrace of its gardens, and you're greeted by a riot of colours and fragrances. Originally envisioned as an extension of the museum's educational mission, these botanical wonders have blossomed into a tranquil oasis, where visitors can immerse themselves in nature's splendour amidst the urban hustle.


Through the decades, the Horniman Museum and Gardens have evolved into more than just a repository of artefacts and flora. It has become a vibrant hub for the local community, hosting a plethora of events, workshops, and exhibitions that celebrate the diversity of human expression and foster cross-cultural dialogue.



We think this is the area that has evolved the most over the years of our visits, now including a butterfly house, café, small zoo and most recently a fabulous Pavilion event room overlooking the gardens - bedecked with balloons, cake and very excited scamps who were enjoying a 5th birthday party when we last visited. On the day we were there (a Sunday) there was a market on the Bandstand Terrace with some beautiful offerings across a range of food, drink, jewellery and design and crafts - lots were locally sourced and ethically produced. All accompanied by the chatter of green ring-necked parakeets in the canopies above.


Our favourite part of the Gardens is the simply breath-taking Victorian Conservatory. By day it is an extension of the café, but it is also available for hire for weddings and events. It really is stunning - built by Horniman in 1894, but recently refurbished and looking resplendent.


Preserving the Past, Inspiring the Future

As we gaze upon the Horniman Museum and Gardens, we're reminded of its timeless significance - a custodian of the past, a catalyst for the future. Perhaps more importantly in the 21st Century it is also a reminder of the colonial history of Great Britain. Horniman's collecting expeditions, undertaken in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, were not merely scholarly pursuits but also reflective of the colonial dynamics of the era. Born into a family deeply involved in the tea trade, Horniman's upbringing was steeped in the colonial ethos of exploration, trade, and acquisition. Armed with financial resources accrued through his family's business ventures, Horniman traversed continents, acquiring artefacts and specimens from regions under colonial rule. These acquisitions, ranging from archaeological treasures to ethnographic objects, formed the cornerstone of his burgeoning collection and laid the foundation for the museum's eclectic exhibits.

To fully grasp the colonial underpinnings of the museum's collection, we must contextualize the prevailing attitudes and practices of the time. The late Victorian era witnessed a surge in imperial expansion and scientific exploration, driven by a potent blend of economic ambition, cultural fascination, and racial hierarchies. Museums across Europe served as repositories for the spoils of empire, showcasing exotic curiosities to eager audiences hungry for glimpses of the "other."


As we confront the colonial legacy of the Horniman Museum, we are faced with a complex tapestry of narratives - one that simultaneously celebrates cultural diversity and grapples with the shadows of imperialism. While the museum's collections offer invaluable insights into the richness of human civilization, they also bear the imprint of colonial conquest and exploitation.

In recent years, there has been a growing recognition of the need to critically examine and contextualize colonial legacies within museum spaces. Initiatives aimed at decolonizing museum practices, such as repatriation efforts, community collaborations, and reinterpretation of exhibits, seek to challenge entrenched narratives and foster more inclusive representations of history and culture. We were heartened to see that the artist Harun Morrison has been appointed to the Decolonising Natural History residency at the Horniman and Delfina Foundation, where he has created Dolphin Head Mountain, an evolving display juxta positioning findings from the backstage areas of the museum and a focus on the Jamaican Swallowtail Butterfly which is present in the original Horniman Collection.


What has been inspirational in this visit to the museum was to see it through the eyes of our 14 year old daughter. For the first time, she slowed down and actually read the display descriptions, asked questions and offered her thoughts. Conversation, discussion and debate grew and allowed us to have an in-depth and honest conversation about colonialism and past wrongs. In one particularly powerful exhibit, the link between the tea trade and the introduction of opium to China by the British was explored. It is wonderful to see that a Museum is now able to hold a mirror up to itself and acknowledge the errors of its past so that we, and our future generations, can learn to not let history repeat itself.

Looking Ahead: Towards a More Inclusive Future

As we navigate the complexities of the Horniman Museum's colonial past, we are reminded of the imperative to reckon with history in all its facets. By confronting uncomfortable truths, engaging in dialogue with diverse voices, and embracing ethical stewardship of cultural heritage, we can chart a path towards a more inclusive and equitable future.


Ultimately, the Horniman Museum stands as a testament to the enduring power of cultural exchange and dialogue. By acknowledging its colonial roots and actively working towards reconciliation and restitution, it strives to transcend the confines of its past and emerge as a beacon of enlightenment and understanding in the modern world.


Its corridors echo with the voices of generations past, while its gardens bloom with the promise of tomorrow. So whether you're a history buff, a nature enthusiast, or simply a curious soul in search of inspiration, the Horniman Museum and Gardens beckon you to embark on a voyage of discovery. And no matter what, there is always the walrus!



Cost: The Museum and Garden are free to visit, but there is a fee to visit the aquarium, butterfly house and visiting exhibitions.

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